Seeking out the snow in Hanamaki (Iwate )

Monday, January 21st, 2013

 

It has been really cold in Japan and it has snowed a lot. But I suppose there wasn’t enough snow for me where I live in central Japan so I travelled up to Hanamaki City in the northern prefecture of Iwate. It is not a big city but some distinguished people were born in this place, including writer Kenji Miyazawa and statesman and educator Inazou Nitobe, both active in the earlier part of the last century.

 

This city also has very good hot springs. I stayed a night at one called “ Yamanokami hot spring “ “ Yamanokami “ means ‘mountain god’ and the inn was designed and built by carpenters who make shrines and temples.

I enjoyed the snowscape from my room and as I was taking a dip in the open air hot spring, the snow fell on me and the breeze cooled my head, so I could stay out in the fresh air for quite some time.

   

After taking a bath, I got great foot massage for 30 minutes. It was very painful for me at the time but worked wonders afterwards. It was my second time to try a foot massage in Hanamaki and each time I was quite impressed by the skills of masseurs and masseuses. Hanamaki must have a good school for massage or good teachers to keep their level high! I had no chance to ask about it but next time I’m going to inquire further. I think it’s worth traveling to Hanamaki just for their hot springs and massage. I like people in Iwate because they are often funny. However, I haven’t had very delicious food in Iwate. I wonder why.

 

I visited Kenji Miyazawa’s museum and learned a lot about him. He was such a surprisingly versatile man. Some of his stories are very sad and some are very funny and sarcastic. He called his hometown “ Iitohabu” , which means “ Iwate “ in Esperanto. He was one of the supporters of the Esperanto movement for a common language for the world. His work was translated into many languages. Near the museum, I found an interesting restaurant called “ Yamaneko ken “. Clearly this was inspired by Mitazawa’s funny and rather interesting story called “ The Restaurant of Many Orders.” Two gentlemen go hunting and get lost in the woods. They feel hungry and find a restaurant whose billboards says “ Anyone is most welcome. Please do come in. We especially welcome those who are heavy and young.” This story is one of my favorite ones. I am happy to find Miyazawa Kenji’s spirit is still alive and well in this area.